Wednesday, March 11, 2015

3D printer!


I can finally write about my best achievement so far: I built a decent quality and large volume 3D printer. It's an open source design of a delta printer called "Kossel", delta means the three motors have a parallel movement.



The advantages of this kind of printer is that each motor has a similar load. I won't give you instructions about how to build it, there is enough material on the web already.
I will tell you where I bought the components, where to find the instructions, what problems I had and how I solved them. Handmade printers require a lot of calibrations that involve mechanical, electrical, electronic and software adjustment. So if you are not too confident in these fields think about buying one instead of building one. There are some decent quality 3D printers on the market under 1000$ (AUD). Sometimes I'm not patient so I skip some important steps and I end up burning something. This kind of project doesn't allow for mistakes, you have to do things right. These warnings sound pretty serious but I have to say I enjoyed the assembly, wiring and calibrating of this beautiful printer. When I printed the first good quality item, I couldn't stop watching it.
My first advice is to read more than one instruction because I found mistakes and gaps in all of them. Understand that each printer is different, nobody can give you a calibrated firmware, you have to do it yourself and that's the longest part.
I bought the kit from http://builda3dprinter.eu/, they offer good quality components, quick shipment (from Europe), and a website full of information. I found some gaps in their instructions, so I followed this manual too. The most common version of Kossel is the Kossel mini, but the one I've built is Kossel XL. The printable volume of the mini is a cylinder of about 170mm diameter and 240mm high. The volume of the XL is a cylinder of about 250mm diameter and 310mm high. The assembly is exactly the same.


Something I strongly recommend:

1 - Get an heated bed, your printed object won't move and you don't have add anything to the surface of your bed.

2 - With an heated bed, do not put your controller under it or it would get hot. I put it on top, in a case with an extra fan for it (it gets hot in Australia). I build the case with clear acrylic sheet (it can be shaped hot). The extra fan is from my CPU (I just upgraded my PC with an Arctic Cooler).


3 - Get a metal nozzle holder with heatsink: I melted the plastic one twice, before I ordered a metal one. I had to modify the platform and fan holder to fit the metal holder because it's much bigger. I also ground one side of the metal holder's heatsink to allow the probe to go up and down without touching it, because it's 25mm diameter (but there are smaller ones). Believe me, all this work is worth it.


4 - The fan that cools the nozzle holder must run all the time: I suggest you wire it up with the power supply rather then the controller, because if the controller shuts down, you don't want the fan to stop, causing the melting of the nozzle holder (or the extrusion platform in case you have a metal nozzle holder).

5 - When you troubleshoot a problem, if you are not sure of what it is, start looking for mechanical issues. Sometimes I look for the cause in electronics or software, when it's just something very simple, like a loose grub screw on the motor shaft (I spent few hours before I figure that out).

6 - PC power supplies are not always ideal. They are made to supply loads of different voltages: 12 V, 5 V and 3.3 V. If you only pull current from the 12 V rail, it goes down under 12 V, and it might not be enough to heat the bed to high temperatures. In my case it was 10.5 V and the heated bed was maximum 85 degrees, when I needed 100-110 to print ABS. So I applied a load (resistances) on the 5 V rail (which was giving 5.6 V) and the 12 V rail went up to 11.7 V. So I bought a LED strip power supply, which only have 12 V output and can supply 30 A (20 A would be enough). Now the voltage is constant and the heated bed keeps the temperature over 100 degrees.

(picture from ebay)

This is a video of my first print:


And this is the finished item: a bust of myself!


I've been scanned with a Sense 3D scanner, but this is another story... on my next post: 3D scanner!

These are other items I printed:











4 comments:

  1. Hi Francesco, great information here, thank you so much for sharing! My son and me are planning on getting exactly the same model at the same supplier and were unsure about the power supply. Now we know what to get. Do you happen to know a good source for filament (or any warning about what not to buy?)

    Best regards,
    Sarah

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  2. Hi Sarah! I never had any problems with filaments and I usually buy from ebay (about 30$, probably made in china). I only failed to print wood PLA, I don't know why, it seems to get stuck in the nozzle. PLA is the best and easiest one to print. I printed a lot of ABS too, but I had warping problems with large surfaces (see my blog). You can't print TPU (rubber) because it compresses between the extruder and the hot end. You can print TCTPE instead (the filament is hard but becomes rubber after print).
    Get a kossel mini, Kossel XL is too big to use the whole build volume (it would take many days for a print). Kossel mini is big enough and more stable. If you want to print something big, you have to slice in many parts anyway, and print one by one. The kits from builda3dprinter.eu are great, they now come with all metal hot end.
    I hope this was useful

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  3. Very useful, many thanks. There are so many people around the net claiming that cheap filament is very bad to use. Good to hear a different opinion. Looking around today, we came upon the Prusa Steel - do you happen to have any experience with it? Being on a limited budget, it might be a better option for a start. My son is a little obsessed with the print size and I was thinking about printing frame parts for multicopters, but if large prints take that long, it might not be worth to buy XL. Stability is an important factor - although there must be ways to make the larger frame more stable?

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  4. I think kossel xl should be made with larger frame (2020 instead of 1515 openbeam), or you can add an X shape frame on the sides. I didn't try a p3steel but I had bad experiences with something similar (aurora), the z-axis rods were not straight. It looked very cheap. I don't think a steel frame improves much from a plastic frame. Have a look at CTC 3D, they sell at 550AUD on ebay. It comes assembled and ready to print. I just bought one, it needs some upgrade to make it print properly but you can print these parts yourself with it and install them. I think I can make it a great printer spending less than 100AUD. It has dual extruder, heated bed, decent build volume (225*145*150mm) and it's easy to enclose.

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